A GREAT TOOL for Renix owners!

Thanks Nick, for developing the REM. Renix Engine Monitor

Our trusty old Renix systems will carry on even longer now. For the price of one or two sensors that didn’t need replacing, this tool pays for itself. See it here:  http://nickintimedesign.wordpress.com/

I’ve had the factory DRB tool for years, but Nick’s REM is actually easier to use and has a long lead on it so monitoring can be done from the driver’s seat. Factory one couldn’t do that.

I appreciate Nick’s ongoing contributions to the Renix Jeep community. Keep up the good work.


28 thoughts on “A GREAT TOOL for Renix owners!”

  1. Nick, you’ve earned yourself one HELL of an endorsement! Glad to see it got the Cruiser seal of approval!

  2. Yes, that REM is AWESOME! I use it daily, great for seeing what the beast is doing, but irreplaceable for troubleshooting.
    Best tool I’ve ever bought.
    Thankfully, a guy that likes building XJs also likes building computers SCORE! Thanks Nick!
    If you own a Renix and don’t have one of these, you’re really cheating yourself.

  3. Wow wow WOW!! NickInTimeDesign and Cruiser54!! What a one two punch to the benefit of ALL of the older Jeep XJ owners out there!! Because of these two (I gotta give credit where it’s due!!), our XJ and MJ jeeps will live on FOREVER!!

  4. 88 xj will not rev past 2000 rpm no matter what I do. I NEED HELP. Bought Nick’s scanner, nothing seems out of wack on it. I have new o2 ,new plugs ,cap ,rotor ,fuel filter ,CPS, TPS.

  5. I have read this thread and I recently had to test fuel pressure on my Renix 2.5 TBI troubleshooting a fuel issue. I want to share a tip. I took out the fuel pressure test port plug on the throttle body and screwed in a Forney brand tank valve (Schrader type) part number #75543. Give it a little twist when removing it for the first time because it has threadlocker on it. Then I was able to connect a fuel pressure gauge with a Schrader type connector to test my fuel pressure. Then I put the plug back after I’m done.

  6. I’d like to order this but I don’t know what the mounting options mean:
    Panel Cutout- Blank, Dual Switch, NS JR 1in Display,Trinity FC

      1. I got my REM installed yesterday and it’s already helped me. My engine was running rough at idle and it told me that the #6 Injector was open. I pushed down on the connector and it resolved the issue. On problem though. after I installed the REM unit I started the engine a couple of times and then it wouldn’t start. I spent a couple of hours troubleshooting and couldn’t find a problem. It was like I was trying to start it in gear. This morning I unplugged the connector from the diagnostic plug and I was able to start! I then plugged it back in and it worked fine. I have no more problem starting again.

          1. What inputs have to be good in order for the ECU to run in a closed loop mode and what are acceptable readings? The two I know are water temp and O2.

  7. I recently found that if the water temp is up to a running range and the O2 sensor has a good reading then the ECU will go into closed loop mode. Nick really needs to write a complete manual for this awesome device. I found out yesterday that the input of wheel size is actually outside tire diameter!

  8. It depends what you’re looking for. I use it for engine/driveability issues.
    I know the REM has more features than I’ll ever use and I have an old one.

  9. I recently replaced my O2 sensor. The old one was was a bit slow to respond but would be pretty steady around five volts when warm. The new one is all over the place but now the ECU goes into closed loop mode as soon as the water temp is warm enough.

  10. I have a 1987 Comanche. Was running fine and a daily driver. Blew the head gasket. Changed the gasket, injectors, fuel pump, converted to an HEI distributor, and new plugs. Started running smoother than it ever had. Went in for the evening and the next morning, nothing. Cranks over but no start. Checked everything again and was getting fuel at the rail but not through the injectors. Changed the CPS, rechecked, and now injectors are firing as they should. However, still cranks over and no start. I’m at a loss. It’s not even trying, acting like there is no fuel or no fire but both are there. Please point me in the right direction.

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