Renix oil filter to SAE filter

Tired of having a poor selection of oil filters for your Renix Jeep? Limited availabilty a pain for you? 20mm threads? We don’t need mumblemeter threads on our oil filters.

Here’s a simple mod that allows you to use the very popular SAE threaded oil filters which are more readily available. The old standard 3/4″ SAE thread.

You can purchase a new oil filter nipple from the dealer for under $10 and never be bothered again. Part number 53007563AB. It’s the one on the left. 53007563AB 7-8 15-16

Or, grab one off a 91 and later XJ at the junkyard. Be forewarned though. You need a 7/8 wrench to remove a Renix nipple, but a 15/16 wrench for the later style.

And just in case you need to replace your oil filter adapter o-rings, here’s a handy guide.

Oil Filter Adapter O-Ring Sizes
87-90 Renix Model O-rings

0.799 x 0.103 AS568 size -117
1.296 x 0.139 AS568 size -219
2.484 x 0.139 AS568 size –230

Dealer Part Numbers for Renix. Sold individually:

33002970, 33002971, 33002972

Renix kit from Crown Automotive-33002970K

91-01 HO Model Orings

0.676 x 0.070 AS568 size -017
0.859 x 0.139 AS568 size -212
2.484 x 0.139 AS568 size -230



Revised 03-07-2017

19 thoughts on “Renix oil filter to SAE filter”

  1. Cruiser 54: I Just put the part on from the Jeep dealer to change to the S A E filter. Because of space limitation, I had to use a deep well socket from Sears (it was the only on deep enough) to get the original part out, and a one inch regular socket to install the new part instead of the 15/16 one specified, otherwise everything went very well, thanks!

  2. Cruiser, my Comanche has 275K on the clock. The oil pump ( new sender) puts out just under 20 psi at 750 rpm hot idle. I don’t know if the pump has been replaced before or not. At about 1500 rpm the pressure is aroun 30-36 psi. Could the pump be on its way out? I need to change the oil pan gasket any way, mabe I should change the pump any way. What do you think?

    1. It couldn’t hurt, but you might verify the pressure with a real gauge first. Our dash gauges and senders seem to be hit and miss.

  3. Ordered the Mopar brand adapter and filter. Haven’t seen any videos and or photos of the swap. Do you have to pull the whole adapter to swap the nipple or can it be swapped on the block? Thanks!

  4. Hey cruiser, back again for some advice lol. Im doing a lot at once as you can obviously tell. Read quite a few forums and obviously you were speaking on the subject there as well. I attempted to get the metric long shaft nipple off on the truck, but it was rounding the ends off. I just went ahead and replaced it with a Fram in the metric thread. Im swapping motor mounts now so I just went ahead and removed the adapter, but its the same and just getting worse. Feels like its several hundred plus Ft pounds on it. I went ahead and ordered a ZJ adapter, I’ll be able to still use this down the road on one of my 89 XJ’s. Is cutting down and easy out the only real viable option here? Can’t imagine how this thing was ever tightened like this. Once again thanks for your time!

      1. I did not, I think the taper at the end of the socket may have rounded off too much. Im going to try that today though. I just assumed it would be well lubricated from being in the oil sending circuit

          1. Cruiser! Got it out a couple weeks ago. Had to use progressive easy outs down the end of the tube and a breaker bar. That thing was in there. Anyway, got all the orings installed. And its ready to go in. Only question that remains is a torque spec. None of my literature has anything. Just curious if you can recall. Anyway thanks for getting me this far sir!

          2. I don’t know the specs and have never torqued them. “Forearm tight”….

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